Amongst political and social disturbances, Document goes backstagewith photographer Alfredo Piola to witness the sartorial escape of Paris Fashion Week.
Rochas
Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented traditional couture shapes in his opulent Spring/Summer 2018 collection for French house Rochas. Luxurious fabrics ran the show, with rich satins, ruffles, and flowing silk on display. Painterly scenes of floral patterns were laid upon sharp colors of violet, jade, crimson, and bronze.
Hermès
A takeover of check patterns occurred at Hermès Spring/Summer 2018, through the rather equestrian cape which led off the collection and the slim tailoring that provided a subtle base throughout. Other prints made appearances to keep this an expressive season, with contrasting stripes bending the eye, illustrated prints, and winding bands of leather woven together to provide a refined sculptural presence.
Above The Fold

Sam Contis Studies Male Seclusion

Slava Mogutin: “I Transgress, Therefore I Am”

The Present Past: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Pierre Bergé Has Died At 86

Falls the Shadow: Maria Grazia Chiuri Designs for Works & Process

An Olfactory Memory Inspires Jason Wu’s First Fragrance

Brave New Wonders: A Preview of the Inaugural Edition of “Close”

Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part One

Modelogue: Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part Two

Surf League by Thom Browne

Nick Hornby: Grand Narratives and Little Anecdotes

The New Helmut

Designer Turned Artist Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is the Pope of Pop

Splendid Reverie: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017

Tom Burr Cultivates Space at Marcel Breuer’s Pirelli Tire Building

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Debuts Eponymous Collection in Paris

Peaceful Sedition: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Ephemeral Relief: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Olivier Saillard Challenges the Concept of a Museum

“Not Yours”: A New Film by Document and Diane Russo

Introducing: Kozaburo, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Marine Serre, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Conscious Skin

Escapism Revived: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Introducing: Cecilie Bahnsen, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Ambush, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

New Artifacts

Introducing: Nabil Nayal, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Bringing the House Down

Introducing: Molly Goddard, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Atlein, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Jahnkoy, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

LVMH’s Final Eight

Escaping Reality: A Tour Through the 57th Venice Biennale with Patrik Ervell

Adorned and Subverted: Backstage MB Fashion Week Tbilisi Autumn/Winter 2017

The Geometry of Sound

Klaus Biesenbach Uncovers Papo Colo’s Artistic Legacy in Puerto Rico’s Rainforest

Westward Bound: Backstage Dior Resort 2018

Artist Francesco Vezzoli Uncovers the Radical Images of Lisetta Carmi with MoMA’s Roxana Marcoci

A Weekend in Berlin

Centered Rhyme by Elaine Lustig Cohen and Hermès

How to Proceed: “fashion after Fashion”

Robin Broadbent’s Inanimate Portraits

“Speak Easy”

Revelations of Truth

Re-Realizing the American Dream

Tomihiro Kono’s Hair Sculpting Process

The Art of Craft in the 21st Century

Strength and Rebellion: Backstage Seoul Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Decorative Growth

The Faces of London

Document Turns Five

Synthesized Chaos: “Scholomance” by Nico Vascellari

A Whole New World for Janette Beckman

New Ceremony: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

New Perspectives on an American Classic

Realized Attraction: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Dematerialization: “Escape Attempts” at Shulamit Nazarian

“XOXO” by Jesse Mockrin

Brilliant Light: Backstage London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

The Form Challenged: Backstage New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Art for Tomorrow: Istanbul’74 Crafts Postcards for Project Lift

Inspiration & Progress

Paskal’s Theory of Design

On the Road

In Taiwan, American Designer Daniel DuGoff Finds Revelation

The Kit To Fixing Fashion

The Game Has Changed: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

Class is in Session: Andres Serrano at The School

Forma Originale: Burberry Previews February 2017

“Theoria”

Wearing Wanderlust: Waris Ahluwalia x The Kooples

Approaching Splendor: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017

In Florence, History Returns Onstage

An Island Aesthetic: Loewe Travels to Ibiza

Wilfried Lantoine Takes His Collection to the Dancefloor

A Return To Form: Backstage New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

20 Years of Jeremy Scott

Offline in Cuba

Distortion of the Everyday at Faustine Steinmetz

Archetypes Redefined: Backstage London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018 Through the Lens of Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu

A Week of Icons: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

Toasting the New Edition of Document

Embodying Rick Owens

Prada Channels the Wonder Women Illustrators of the 1940s

Andre Walker’s Collection 30 Years in the Making

Fallen From Grace, An Exclusive Look at Item Idem’s “NUII”

Breaking the System: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

A Modern Manufactory at Mykita Studio

A Wanted Gleam: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

Fashion’s Next, Cottweiler and Gabriela Hearst Take International Woolmark Prize

Beauty in Disorder: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

“Dior by Mats Gustafson”

Prada’s Power

George Michael’s Epochal Supermodel Lip Sync

The Search for the Spirit of Miss General Idea

A Trace of the Real

Wear and Sniff

Underwater, Doug Aitken Returns to the Real
Christian Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri opened her collection for Dior once again with a shirt branded with a feminist statement: “Why have there been no great women artists?” Proving that she is determined to make her mark on the brand, Chiuri introduced denim onto the runway in the form of two-toned pants and blazers, as well as berets. There was a blending of worlds and lifestyles on display with leather motor-bike jumpsuits alongside sheer, underwear-revealing dresses, and impeccably tailored jackets with waists nipped in—formal and decidedly feminine.
Kenzo La Collection Memento
In the second Kenzo La Collection Memento, which pays homage to the house archives, Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon decided to start off their show with a bit of theatrics. Ambitiously treating the show’s guests to a 30 minute kagura performance by a traditional Japanese theater group, Lim and Leon reflected upon the past, taking inspiration from the history of Kenzo Takada and his first foray into denim. Full denim workwear looks were their tribute, in rust and dark indigo with contrasting stitching, flowing then into print-heavy, japan-inspired bamboo, tigers, and graphic clouds.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
A visual feast. As with most Westwood shows, Spring/Summer 2018 by Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood was a cacophony of texture, “bad-taste,” and lots of bare skin. Picturesque scenes of rural Renaissance bliss were printed onto dresses, pants, and a cape, as the countryside ran deeply throughout the collection.
Chanel
Akin to the future that André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne imagined in the 1960’s and 1970’s, Karl Lagerfeld imparts a vision that is crisp, bright, and full of optimism for Chanel Spring/Summer 2018. This time situated in a natural retreat; an idyllic scene of stylish seclusion with transparent plastic boots, ponchos, and visors protecting against mist from a nearby waterfall. Mod silhouettes flowed throughout—curve hugging and thigh revealing—and were doused in pale shades and classic Chanel tweed.
Y/Project
Glenn Martens continued to capture youth and energy in his Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Y/Project, transforming mundane clothing into adjustable, romantic, and subverted statements. Footwear was coiled up around the legs, with large strips of suede or with subtle and romantic bands of leather adorned with flowers. Martens induced eroticism into the collection with preppy sweaters bunched and pierced with jeweled nipple clasps, along with nude tulle, rolled and formed over the clothes beneath, shrouding and distorting the figure.
Stella McCartney
Eco-conscious has become a staple for Stella McCartney, and her Spring/Summer 2018 collection was no exception. McCartney proved that faux leather can look just as luxurious as the alternative—with a low-cut twist-top and an incredibly supple pair of caramel colored trousers. Dashes of hot pink washed over the collection, adding a vivid pop along with magenta, red, and acid washed denim.
Lemaire
Glamor exuded from Lemaire Spring/Summer 2018, as Christophe Lemaire and his wife Sarah-Linh Tran draped their models in glossy satin. Voluminous pleating worked with the rest of their pared-back style, clad in rich hues of plum, burgundy, and sapphire. A supple glamor usually reserved for passing glances.
Atlein
Antonin Tron of Atlein continued his work with jersey for Spring/Summer 2018, crafting looks that clung to and swirled around the body, infusing it instantly with an easy-going sensuality. Tron decided to lead with the unfamiliar, sending out a fitted khaki jacket with off-kilter pockets and impeccably tailored shorts to match. Overall, his collection was one of romanticism, with jackets and dresses contorted yet still brought close to the body, keeping an innate sexuality imbued into the clothes.
Nehera
In the first collection since the departure of artistic director Samuel Drira, Nehera’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection—produced entirely in-house—was understated and airy. Quiet tones of ivory, stone, pale yellow, and navy brought a certain form of mediation to the tailoring, with cinching at the waist and bags worn at the hip grounding them in determined usefulness.