Document highlights Paris’ week of sartorial disruption backstage with photographer Julien Boudet in the slideshow above.
Kenzo
Stepping away from previously politicized offerings, Kenzo designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon found a renewed focus on joy and beauty for Spring/Summer 2018. With their use of color saturated and texturally diverse outerwear, the duo tested nearly every design under the sun: mesmerizing stripes, fuzz covered sweaters, three different sorts of floral patterns, vivid color-blocked, statuesque jackets, and more. High-waisted pants—reminiscent of 50’s baseball trousers—and retro NASCAR motifs added even more diversity.
Dior Homme
Slim-fitted tailoring led Dior Homme’s Spring 2018 collection by Kris Van Assche in the form of nipped waists, crisp logo patches, and shorn-off arms—a sense of youth and subversive revolt following the lead of his counterpart, Maria Grazia Chiuri, last season. Worn beautifully with the designer’s subverted elegance were large soled sneakers, instantly imbuing each look with a sense of nostalgic ease. Keeping color primarily to hues of maroon and red, schoolboy looks were trotted out in varsity striped sweater vests and outerwear paired with short shorts and skull-adorned necklaces and bracelets.
Above The Fold

Sam Contis Studies Male Seclusion

Slava Mogutin: “I Transgress, Therefore I Am”

The Present Past: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Pierre Bergé Has Died At 86

Falls the Shadow: Maria Grazia Chiuri Designs for Works & Process

An Olfactory Memory Inspires Jason Wu’s First Fragrance

Brave New Wonders: A Preview of the Inaugural Edition of “Close”

Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part One

Modelogue: Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part Two

Surf League by Thom Browne

Nick Hornby: Grand Narratives and Little Anecdotes

The New Helmut

Designer Turned Artist Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is the Pope of Pop

Splendid Reverie: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017

Tom Burr Cultivates Space at Marcel Breuer’s Pirelli Tire Building

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Debuts Eponymous Collection in Paris

Ephemeral Relief: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Olivier Saillard Challenges the Concept of a Museum

“Not Yours”: A New Film by Document and Diane Russo

Introducing: Kozaburo, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Marine Serre, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Conscious Skin

Escapism Revived: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018

Introducing: Cecilie Bahnsen, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Ambush, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

New Artifacts

Introducing: Nabil Nayal, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Bringing the House Down

Introducing: Molly Goddard, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Atlein, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

Introducing: Jahnkoy, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist

LVMH’s Final Eight

Escaping Reality: A Tour Through the 57th Venice Biennale with Patrik Ervell

Adorned and Subverted: Backstage MB Fashion Week Tbilisi Autumn/Winter 2017

The Geometry of Sound

Klaus Biesenbach Uncovers Papo Colo’s Artistic Legacy in Puerto Rico’s Rainforest

Westward Bound: Backstage Dior Resort 2018

Artist Francesco Vezzoli Uncovers the Radical Images of Lisetta Carmi with MoMA’s Roxana Marcoci

A Weekend in Berlin

Centered Rhyme by Elaine Lustig Cohen and Hermès

How to Proceed: “fashion after Fashion”

Robin Broadbent’s Inanimate Portraits

“Speak Easy”

Revelations of Truth

Re-Realizing the American Dream

Tomihiro Kono’s Hair Sculpting Process

The Art of Craft in the 21st Century

Strength and Rebellion: Backstage Seoul Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Decorative Growth

The Faces of London

Document Turns Five

Synthesized Chaos: “Scholomance” by Nico Vascellari

A Whole New World for Janette Beckman

New Ceremony: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

New Perspectives on an American Classic

Realized Attraction: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Dematerialization: “Escape Attempts” at Shulamit Nazarian

“XOXO” by Jesse Mockrin

Brilliant Light: Backstage London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

The Form Challenged: Backstage New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017

Art for Tomorrow: Istanbul’74 Crafts Postcards for Project Lift

Inspiration & Progress

Paskal’s Theory of Design

On the Road

In Taiwan, American Designer Daniel DuGoff Finds Revelation

The Kit To Fixing Fashion

The Game Has Changed: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

Class is in Session: Andres Serrano at The School

Forma Originale: Burberry Previews February 2017

“Theoria”

Wearing Wanderlust: Waris Ahluwalia x The Kooples

Approaching Splendor: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017

In Florence, History Returns Onstage

An Island Aesthetic: Loewe Travels to Ibiza

Wilfried Lantoine Takes His Collection to the Dancefloor

A Return To Form: Backstage New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

20 Years of Jeremy Scott

Offline in Cuba

Distortion of the Everyday at Faustine Steinmetz

Archetypes Redefined: Backstage London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018 Through the Lens of Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu

A Week of Icons: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018

Toasting the New Edition of Document

Embodying Rick Owens

Prada Channels the Wonder Women Illustrators of the 1940s

Andre Walker’s Collection 30 Years in the Making

Fallen From Grace, An Exclusive Look at Item Idem’s “NUII”

Breaking the System: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

A Modern Manufactory at Mykita Studio

A Wanted Gleam: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

Fashion’s Next, Cottweiler and Gabriela Hearst Take International Woolmark Prize

Beauty in Disorder: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017

“Dior by Mats Gustafson”

Prada’s Power

George Michael’s Epochal Supermodel Lip Sync

The Search for the Spirit of Miss General Idea

A Trace of the Real

Wear and Sniff

Underwater, Doug Aitken Returns to the Real

Petit h, Plentiful Possibilites
Hermès
Designer Veronique Nichanian showed her mastery of proportions and detailing for Hermès’ Spring 2018 collection. Immutable and nonchalant, relaxed chinos and denim were paired with shirts and blazers of deep burgundy, clay, and emerald. Workwear stitching and scaled leather added touches of toughness but overall the collection oozed a refined cool: expert craftsmanship counterbalanced by relaxed, villa-ready easiness.
Balenciaga
While others looked to youth for reinvigoration, Demna Gvasalia took Balenciaga older, turning his gaze to the family man. Ever the reinventor of the seemingly banal, the designer proportioned his shirts and his jackets to the ungainly, the uncouth. Short sleeve polos, with their sleeves past the elbow, and blazers and Hawaiian-print shirts near formless, challenged rigid traditions of the male silhouette. Logomania, never to be forgotten, showed itself as an homage to the power of the E.U. as “Europa” appeared throughout, alongside the resolute platitude—“the power of dreams.”
Études Studio
An ode to the city. Donning métro tickets and Parisian landmarks, the multi-faceted Études Studio—helmed by Jérémie Égry and Aurélien Arbet—created a straightforward but fresh Spring/Summer 2018 collection that weaved its way from turquoise and white striped looks—a direct reference to the train—to denim overalls and goldenrod yellow workwear. What more can be said of this love-drenched sonnet? “Paris! Ville de nos rêves.” (Paris! City of our dreams.)

Backstage OAMC Spring/Summer 2018 photographed by Julien Boudet for Document.
Facetasm
“An unconventional harmony created by dissonance” was the idea driving the Spring/Summer 2018 collection by Facetasm. This dissonance was shown through an array of clashing ideas and cultures: cumbersome overalls paired with a floor length tuxedo, a beautiful sky blue leather rain jacket worn with torn denim shorts, and workwear-esque outerwear held billowing capes. The collection was a visual cacophony of textures and styles, each clashing and working their way to push toward the front.
OAMC
Focused on truth and on protest, OAMC designer Luke Meier found inspiration in beatnik legend Allen Ginsberg, using his seminal work “Howl and Other Poems” throughout the collection. Rigid, boxy jackets—traditional in form—were marked with “Veritas,” and sat atop sharp, near military lines of the crisp tailored pants and black leather boots that propped up many of the looks. A pristine trenchcoat appeared, “People for Peace” on one arm, the other wrist blackened out.