Italian designers challenged codes of their own during Milan’s historic week of menswear. Here, Lillie Eiger relays seasonal highlights backstage for Document.
Branded backsides announced—in case it was not quite clear–Silvia Venturini Fendi’s loud spring appointment: an eccentric, fashion catcall of sorts where slogans are sexy and color is supreme. The line dazzled in acid yellows, warm tangerines, and, of course, furs that passed the Fendi-standard but that, beneath, welcomed an exotic montage of ‘80s sportswear.
No one understands the extremes like Miuccia Prada. No doubt a social trumpet to arms, this season was noticeably restrained; its simpleness the product of life itself so large right now. Not to say the collection lacked in statement—surely the geometric knits and painted watercolor pullovers would argue otherwise—but all together the sentiment—’70s, subdued, and warm—was pure, direct.
To say there was anticipation for Ferragamo‘s Fall runway would be a light statement. Guillaume Meilland, the house’s newly-appointed men’s director, did not let any thought linger, though, with his confident collection of precise yet sensual urban clothing. Elongated coats paired with slim pants while sportswear details shone through. The proportions were sleek yet supple. New yet knowledgeable.
The different troupes of Versace revealed themselves this season. There were the suit-guys, the often overlooked but silent powerhouse sect who took the catwalk by storm in terrific topcoats and skinny ties. There were the tough bunch, outfitted in patent leather and even shinier gold jewelry. Moreover, there were those in the between: the decisive kinksters ready to try something—anything—new at a moment’s notice.
Athleisure clashed with British royalty in Massimo Giorgetti’s cross-cultural collection for his own brand this fall. Marked by a preview of a soon-coming collaboration with Diadora, the sportswear-heavy line was not without Giorgetti’s now-perfected line-up of logo-covered sweatshirts. Matched with lush, silk scarves for styling—a nod to Windsor Castle—he presented an outfit for a time not yet defined.
Not for nothing, the ’70s are often reflected in creative pursuits. This season, designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua, poignantly responding to today’s worldly affairs, looked to another side of the era, translating its rule-breaking political attitude into brightly colored menswear with radical intentions for No. 21. Shearling—fall’s most favorite friend—in particular, was reutilized as eco-friendly and was marked by contrast. Oversized and freedom fighting, it was a collection with purpose.