Document witnesses Milan iconography and immaculate construction with photographer Luigi Lista.
An Ode to color. Massimo Georgetti created an effortless rainbow as their Spring/Summer 2018 collection moved down the runway. Frayed edges, tie-dyed prints, color blocking, and plaid—the collection, titled Hue/Saturation, exuded energy.
Echoing the revolutionary feminist comic books of the early 20th century, Miuccia Prada refused to let women be pushed aside for Prada’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Providing a more seditious continuation of the comic focused menswear collection, coats, dresses, and shirts were papered with pages of comic books, lauding the toughness and anger that women have so often been forbidden from feeling. Leathered, strong formed, and studded features exemplified this toughness; sleeves rolled up and bunched above the elbow, providing their wearer a complete utility—to work or to fight. No more passivity.
Legacy. Marking the 20th year of Gianni Versace’s death, Donatella took Versace’s Spring/Summer 2018 season to commemorate his continued presence at the brand. Using the archived patterns and themes from the years 1991-1995—including baroque, vogue, aquatic and more—the collection not only honored the late designer’s work but also proved the timelessness of his designs. Finishing the show was a fleet of chainmail-clad supermodels from the 1990’s, including Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, and Helena Christensen.
Alessandro Michele always brings eclectic glamour to any collection for Gucci, and Spring/Summer 2018 was no exception. Accessing new friend Elton John’s archive, the inspiration from the performer’s vibrant and glittery 1970s stage costumes were ever present. “Never Marry A Mitford” was printed on a knit sweater, a nod to a recent meeting with the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. Merging vintage, contemporary, and glamour it was a dazzling affair.
Towel headwraps, flowing kaftans, and pucci printed swimsuits—Spring/Summer 2018 at Emilio Pucci was an ode to the seaside traveler with a love of luxury. Since parting with Creative Director Massimo Georgetti, the brand has returned to its origin of vacation wear with great triumph.
Snakeskin and satin. This season at Salvatore Ferragamo we saw some imaginative nods to construction. Many of the garments held a familiar shape and pattern but were laser cut with dots and flowers, other pieces of satin were color blocked together to fall geometrically on the models walking the show, and bustier dresses with contrasting stitching on the hems were present throughout.
Recently appointed creative director Paul Surridge brought sensuality to Roberto Cavalli for Spring/Summer 2018. With a multitude of plunging necklines in leotards and dresses, as well as suit vests with nothing worn underneath, the Cavalli woman was stronger as ever. Animal prints returned as a beloved Roberto Cavalli staple, while the collection brought the luxurious Roberto Cavalli woman into present day.
Tailoring abstracted. The flawless tailoring and suiting that has given Giorgia Armani legendary status was ever present this season. A wide array of abstract prints, wavy hem lines, and ruffles showed the mastery of the craft as the garments flowed down the runway, effortlessly as a brush stroke. The season seemed to be inspired by Joan Miró, as evident by the amorphous shapes printed onto the clothing.
Modern sensuality. This season the duo Lucie and Luke Meier made their debut at Jil Sander, with everyone patiently and anxiously waiting to see what they would bring to the iconic fashion house. The collection stayed true to the minimalist nature of the brand but their new vision was clearly present. With macrame vests and loosely knitted dresses the garments mimicked the beautiful intricate braids in the models hair, made only more striking with their stripped-back make up and the sheerness of the gowns as they seemed to float down the runway.