With backlash towards Brexit reaching a tipping point at London Fashion Week, three designers tell us how they are being affected by the decision to leave the EU.

As Brexit inches closer, no one in the UK—nor the rest of Europe, for that matter—seems any wiser to what the next two months have in store for the country and its borders. On March 29, the UK will officially leave the EU, and it increasingly looks like it’ll be done blind; Prime Minister Theresa May has already had one deal shot down by Parliament, and President of the European Council Donald Tusk has told her not to come crawling back asking for amendments.

The looming prospect of a no deal is putting industry on tenterhooks with some of the country’s titans already firming up their back up plans—the BBC has announced it’s considering setting up international headquarters in Belgium, and the country was left asking questions when James Dyson, who’s taken a pro-Brexit stance, decided to move his company to Singapore.

But what does the fashion industry make of all this? Well, whatever people say, it’s a voice to be reckoned with. The UK fashion industry generates just over half as many jobs as travel and tourism (1.4 million), more than twice as many as real estate, and considerably more than telecommunications, car manufacturing, and publishing combined. In January the British Fashion Council openly backed the idea of a second referendum; asking the country to vote again on Brexit. “We are supporting the call for The People’s Vote as the preferred current option to minimize the impact to industry based on there being no valid deal on the table,” said the BFC in a statement.

Above The Fold

At the women’s Fall 2019 shows this week, Brexit backlash grew louder. Vivienne Westwood models condemned Brexit over megaphones, while wearing slogan tees as loud as Katharine Hamnett’s already-iconic “Cancel Brexit” ones. Even when not directly referenced on the runway, the prospect of an EU weighed heavily on the minds of designers, particularly those of smaller brands reliant on international trade. Document asked three designers who operate out of the UK what they make of the idea of letting the general public have another say about Brexit in order to save the country from collapse.

Bella Freud

Do you back the idea of a second referendum?

I 100% back the idea of a final vote or a second referendum. I think it’s essential, as the government are so caught up with their own internal fight for survival that they don’t seem concerned about the impact Brexit will have on our lives.

What impact do you think Brexit will have on the UK’s fashion industry?

I don’t know anyone in the fashion business who voted leave. The loss in value of the pound has already impacted the UK fashion industry, with the cost of importing fabrics and finished goods eroding the profit margin, affecting every stage of the supply chain. Consumer confidence has been seriously battered with the drop in house prices. This is before Brexit has even happened.

How will Brexit impact you? Have you had to make any changes or contingency plans?

There is so little clarity, it’s hard to know what contingency plans to make—this is what is alarming. Certainly, we will all need to employ experts to advise us on what we are supposed to be doing with all the new red tape—this is unaffordable for many. The fashion industry contributed £36 billion to the UK economy in 2017, we are an extremely valuable asset. Leaving Europe will create delays in importing goods and shipping things to factories in Europe. Our business depends on speed and being ahead of the game; it will set us back in so many ways. I am dedicating my energy to pushing for a final vote on whatever the deal is. I don’t think we will leave Europe if there is a second referendum, I hope we don’t leave as I think it will be detrimental for the UK fashion industry.

How valuable is Europe to your work?

The fashion industry is a community, regardless of the region or country. We are unified by our profession and the free movement of talent. We employ some brilliant young internationals as part of the team, they bring expertise and insight. They pay taxes here which contribute to our economy. At the moment a model can jump on the train or fly in for a casting or a shoot, but if we have borders they will have to have a visa, and you need a job to get a visa. Brexit will put us back into the dark ages in terms of travel.

Hannah Weiland of Shrimps

Do you back the idea of a second referendum?

I do believe that the people should be able to vote again as the public weren’t rightly educated about what Leave and Remain would mean in the first referendum, and at the moment there are no positive options being presented to us.

What impact do you think Brexit will have on the UK’s fashion industry?

In general there would be a negative impact on the economy that would come from such a drastic change, which will inevitably be disastrous for the fashion and luxury industry. So many fashion houses will rely on free trade and free movement within the EU that there is no chance the impact will be positive on our industry  

How will Brexit impact your company? Have you had to make any changes or contingency plans?

As a small, London-based brand we work and trade with businesses based within the EU. That helps us to keep costs down and helps us to achieve the results we want within our means, as well as hire to international talent. Brexit would really compromise this for us and for our customers. I love having an international team and hate the anxiety and worry it is causing my employees.

How is Europe valuable to your work?

We make a lot of our product all over Europe. As well as having lots of European team members, it is very valuable.

Rejina Pyo

Do you back the idea of a second referendum?

Yes, we back the idea of a second referendum given that it was not clear what we were voting on the first time. If our government cannot resolve Brexit, which it seems it cannot, then absolutely we must have a second referendum.

What impact do you think Brexit will have on the UK’s fashion industry?

Brexit jeopardises the strong working relationships we have built with our manufactures, suppliers, and retailers across Europe, and other countries we have free trade agreements with such as Korea. It takes a long time to build these relationships as a small business and it is certainly not easy to make changes to our supply chain.

How will Brexit impact your company? Have you had to make any changes or contingency plans?

Brexit is a risk to our stability as a young and growing business.

How is Europe valuable to your work?

It is incredible being a part of the European fashion community—the free movement of people, creativity, skills, and resources is what makes it so exciting. Putting up barriers and walls to that community will be such a shame and a real loss to the UK fashion landscape.

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