The designer builds a new syntax for exaggerated tailoring and makes the case for contrast.
From the opening look, it’s clear that J.W. Anderson’s Fall 2020 collection is a land of complementary contrast. There are expansive collars that descend into a billowing coat, sleek satin dresses that jut out on the sides developing an eccentric geometry, and shirts with a series of undulating flared sleeves. By virtue of the fact that he’s also serving as creative director at Loewe and holding down a spot on the Moncler Genius roster, it’s clear that Anderson can expand on a cluster of independent ideas at once.
The collection, which used mixed media art as a jumping-off point, glides between bombastic and subdued fitting, forming a wide-ranging syntax. Fil-coupé dresses feature shimmering cascades of silver and gold, while patterned overcoats are paired with matching oversized slacks. Accessories were especially eye-catching, including handbags patterned after punch bags and crystal ankle straps fastened on top of trousers, accentuating their bulk through constriction. Varying levels of volume were a central theme of the show, with every piece having its own distinct arc when worn. Providing curvature wide enough to evoke fantasy, with sharp tailoring to remain grounded, Anderson’s collection acts as a collage of fact and fiction.