On a puzzle-like stage, French contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan joined Creative Director Virginie Viard to design an experimental yet versatile collection

Yesterday morning, the Étrier de Paris was transformed by oversized silver mobiles and zigzagged decor for Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2022/2023 haute couture collection. Like in the season before, French contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan joined Creative Director Virginie Viard to collaborate on the design of the show, allowing experimentation to thrive. Both took inspiration from geometric shapes, creating a presentation rife with camouflage and optical illusion—fashion appeared and disappeared at the same time.

Before the presentation, the French house produced a surreal short film in which Veilhan, brand ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi, musician Sébastien Tellier, and model Vivienne Rohner appeared before colorful backgrounds—giant dogs, sharks, cars, and musical instruments joined them. In continuation of this playful collaboration, Pharrel Williams started the show on a big screen, performing a drum solo. He was displayed sometimes in black-and-white, other times in color, often distorted with geometric shapes overlaid on top.

Models took over the puzzle-like stage, dressed in reimagined 1930s pieces as they walked down a two-story runway. They wore tweed suits, pleated dresses, and fitted coats with strong shoulders, paired with t-strap pumps and cowboy boots. The color palette ranged from bright green and pink to fall khaki and beige, with lots of black and silver.

Chanel offered a nonchalant, wide-ranging collection, where the opening look was monochromatic with big buttons and even bigger pockets, and the finale was a strapless wedding gown, complete with a shawl and bow. “The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn,” Viard is quoted in the press release. “I can’t see myself doing it any other way.”