Business meeting at 6? Parisian rooftop party at 9? Virginie Viard has a tweed suit for that.

Chanel’s Spring Summer 2020 show, held at the Grand Palais, marked creative director Virginie Viard’s first ready-to-wear collection for the brand since the passing of Karl Lagerfeld earlier this year. Its cinematic set was inspired by the rooftops of Paris, complete with antique chimneys sourced from flea markets. Viard included all the mainstays of the Chanel brand: tweed, plaid, herringbone, boucle jackets with buttons and pearls, but added her own approach. The French New Wave—La Nouvelle Vague—was an obvious reference point for the collection, bringing a cool, modern air. Metallic hot pants were a standout piece, as were the monochrome looks towards the show’s end, including a sheer, black, a leg-of-mutton-sleeve dress adorned with bows. The looks were feminine but not blatantly so, balanced out with masculine tailoring. Footwear, such as sequined cap-toe heels with delicate ankle straps and others embellished with delicate silver stars and Chanel-logo emblems, were paired with opaque tights. The collection introduced Viard’s take on the modern Chanel woman through the unity of classicism and modernity.

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