The label’s runway show looked back to its history, while imagining new silhouettes for the modern man

“What’s next for tailoring?” asks Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s artistic director. “And for the needs of the lives of today?” These are the questions that form the basis of his work at the Italian house, and that have shaped the presentation of its Spring 2023 menswear collection. Staged on the rooftop of the Lanificio Zegna wool mill, which was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, the show was the meeting point of the label’s patent elements: utility, organic material, and commitment to the highest standards of garment construction.

The mechanical setting existed in stark contrast with the view around it: a green mountain range, mostly comprised of the Oasi Zegna, a protected section of the forest that the founder acquired around the same time as the mill. The clothing served as a meeting point between nature and industry: kimono-cut outerwear, knitted vests and polos, loose-fitting trousers that retain a strong silhouette. The collection engages with a wide range of textiles—from cashmere, to silk, to wool, to leather, to terry—and stays with an earthy color palette: white, shades of yellow, beige, deep brown, orange, dark pink, and black.

“The idea is to use our craftsmanship as a progressive tool, keeping the finesse, the attention to detail, the respect of materials while experimenting with shapes,” continues Sartori, “building up a new silhouette where [effortlessness] and innovation create a new style for men. In doing so, we keep expanding and solidifying a distinctive language, the one of Zegna.”