For Spring/Summer 2024, Alessandro Sartori leans into linen’s flexibility with tailored ensembles both unconstricted and functional

Drenched in summer sun, Zegna brings a lightness to the heart of Milan. The workwear uniform is reimagined with stone-fruit hues, airy silhouettes, and organic elegance for the label’s Spring/Summer 2024 show. Creative director Alessandro Sartori looked to materiality to explore a new sartorial attitude—complementing linen’s nimble character with the vast possibilities of personal style. “The overall fluidity makes it all look quiet and luxurious,” said the designer, “but the tension in the details, the richness of colors, and the freedom to combine garments in an infinite combination of ways suggests it is not quiet at all.”

Unprocessed golden linen—192 bales—bordered the piazza where the runway show took place, cast against the ephemeral blue bloom of the sourced Norman flax, set to re-enter the production cycle as the next generation of Oasi Lino. A departure from last year’s Oasi Cashmere, Zegna plans to certify all of its linen fibers as a hundred percent traceable by next year. A marriage of the natural and urban characterized the set, and manifested in the clothing through its neutral hues—a nod to the brand’s ethos of circularity.

The collection of tailored ensembles was equal parts unconstricted and ornate—shirts cascaded into bombers, round-neck tops took the place of sharp blazers, trousers adopted a relaxed fit—as functional elements hid beneath the garments’ construction. The textural palette—an alluring mosaic of linen gabardine, washi paper, hammered nabuk, and jute oxford—imbued this season with effortless cool. With versatility and adaptability at its core, Zegna ushered in a new dawn of pragmatic play.