Document heads backstage for an exclusive look at NYFW S/S 2016 with highlights from some of the season’s strongest collections including Hood by Air, Philip Lim, Baja East, DKNY, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, Altuzarra, Calvin Klein, Givenchy, and Rodarte. Photographer Joshua Woods and Document‘s online fashion director Ronald Burton give us the inside look. Scroll through the gallery above for an insider’s look.
Hood by Air
Detention was in session with Shayne Oliver’s latest collection at Hood by Air, as each model, or shall we say student, stormed down the runway, with references to school uniform, creatively and skillfully deconstructed.
Elegant, easy, romantic, and as always cool. Lim celebrating his 10th year anniversary and you understand the success of the brand from the start. It’s his ability to marry the cool and sporty ideal, and give it a tailored refined edge, key pieces being outerwear, reworked shirting silhouettes, and high-waist trousers.
Bohemian and luxury go seamlessly hand in hand in the collection of Scott Studenberg and John Targon of Baha East. The fabrics were fluid, common casual items such as sweatshirts were embroidered with Swarovski crystals. Tie dye mania happening all over great silks caftans, pants, and cover ups.
Sportswear was always at the core of the brand, and the new design duo, Maxwell Osbourne & Dao-Yi Cho of Public School, expanded on this in a fresh, modernly youthful approach. They modernize the classic pinstripe textile in a variety of mixed shapes and silhouettes pointing DKNY in the right direction towards sportswear domination, just as it was under Donna Karan in the 90’s.
They modernize the classic pinstripe textile in a variety of mixed shapes and silhouettes pointing DKNY in the right direction towards sportswear domination, just as it was under Donna Karan in the 90’s.
Wang has always had a knack for making cool clothes women want to wear, and looking back over his past decade of work on his 10th anniversary, it was evident that he is the people’s designer. This street-wise collection had many highlights, but among them were the netted tanks, oversized outerwear, shredded denim, and kick-ass leather bits.
Marc Jacobs is a genius when it comes to a seemingly eclectic collection. Themes included punk, high society, glam, and most loudly, americana, dominated this latest collection.
Joseph Altuzarra’s clothing is undoubtedly made for women, and his usual slinky, seductive silhouettes we have grown to know and love him for were reconfigured in the most beautiful, organic lightweight fabrics, offering an additional hint of tranquility to the collection.
Calvin Klein Collection
CKC, known for it’s minimalism, took it a step further this season. Though still clean, and easy, it was the beautiful silks, and deconstructed classic silhouettes that made you again focus on the brand’s attention to detail. Amongst these offerings were beautiful silk dresses, frayed overcoats and trousers, and perhaps the biggest shock to us all the use of large floral prints.
Tisci made quite the statement uprooting it’s show from Paris, and making NYC it’s home for the season on one of the most remembered days in US history, 9/11. As this day was a day of reflection for all of American’s, there was also a theme of remembering the past in his collection in honor of the present. We saw the brilliance of his tailoring, juxtaposed with the softness of dark lace, and the genius of his couture collections shown in a few gowns.
The dynamic duo at Rodarte have always been known for skillfully mastering the art of clothing construction in the most uniquely perplexing, yet most beautiful way; this season we visit 70’s rock, with a large dose of glamour.