Miuccia Prada’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection turns to history, embracing old brand archetypes to propose a cross between preppy and sporty

Beauty, to Miuccia Prada, is innate to life and central to her designs. It might feel contradictory, given that Miu Miu was dubbed “ugly-chic” in the ’90s—but that’s just the passage of time. This season, the label embraced the ever-shifting nature of the word: “Instead of rigid paradigms, there is a radical expansion, a rich plurality. Not beauty, but beauties.”

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection merged two historic Miu Miu archetypes: quirky beach, and #GeekChic. Collared shirts were layered under fisherman knits and baggy logo polos, styled with navy blazers for a learned look. Last season’s viral hot shorts were updated for the surf—à la Spring/Summer 2003—tied with drawstrings, like a speedo, and styled with frilly petticoats, leather skirt and bandeau sets, or suede trousers. Miu Miu’s signature sparkle could be found in intricate beadwork, trimming dusters worn over V-neck sweaters with their sleeves rolled up. Footwear offerings included leather Teva-looking sandals, adorned with colorful toe straps, and an exclusive New Balance 530, destined to be among the most widely-coveted pieces of the collection.

“Quotations of past styles emphasize the importance and meaning of history,” read a statement from the label. “They are embedded with the memories of the values of past times, reevaluated.” Beauty contains multitudes, and Miu Miu is here to react with intention, to connect, to inspire.