Hedi Slimane channels youth culture and a punk aesthetic for Fall/Winter 2022

L’Olympia Bruno Coquatrix is a legendary concert venue, and the oldest music hall in Paris. It’s also an appropriate setting for Hedi Slimane’s latest runway presentation: CELINE HOMME’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection fell somewhere between nightclub attire and what you’d see onstage at a concert. A lot of the garments make you wonder: What would that look like in the dark, or on a dance floor?

Slimane has a tight, specific vision for the collection, evidenced by the models’ uniformity. They all wear the same sunglasses, have the same slicked-back hair, and walk on-beat to the soundtrack, created by the artist ShitKid. Not every look can be categorized under one style archetype, but all of them can be understood as a combination of three: glamorous punk—defined by leather and ornament—slim suiting, and what’s best described as luxury grunge.

When Slimane pairs casual glamour with sleek formal tailoring, what we get is the rockstar aura of I don’t care for the next generation. And today’s youth has been a creative inspiration for Slimane: He’s been putting grungy streetwear through different luxury filters since CELINE HOMME’s Spring/Summer 2021 show in July 2020. This season, it comes in the form of raw-hem denim, blinged-out outerwear, and graphic-heavy leather; eight artists, including Banks Violette, collaborated on the collection.

This season, Slimane does what everyone wants their favorite designer to do: play with a new idea without completely abandoning their signature. Historically, slim tailoring has been at the core of his visual language as a designer. But it would be a mistake to dismiss luxury grunge as merely this season’s experiment. Instead, it’s a concept Slimane has been evolving for four menswear collections now. Maybe, come next season, we’ll consider it a signature in its own right.

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