The photographer offers a closer look at some of the season’s standouts, including Yuhan Wang, Maximilian Davis, and Jawara Alleyne
Street style, stormy weather, great designers, new collections, and unforgettable looks: This year’s London Fashion Week was one for the record books, bolstered by a surge of energy that can likely be attributed to a full-fledged return to the in-person catwalk. For Document, photographer Peter Lowe gives an insider’s look into a few of the season’s standouts, capturing everything sexy, electric, godlike, fur-lined, and knit that the British capital has to offer.
Talent incubator Fashion East showcased three up-and-coming designers for its umbrella presentation. Chet Lo sought to take traditional winter garb and “make it sizzle,” with feathered sets, earmuffs, and knee-high snow boots cinched into his signature spiky knitwear textures. Jawara Alleyne’s first runway show was an homage to his Carribean roots, featuring cut-out t-shirts, expertly draped sets, and an edgy, unfinished aesthetic. Maximilian Davis looked to the countryside, with preppiness and sharp tailoring; he toes the line between equestrian suiting and modern elegance, with miniskirts, hoodies, and sandals juxtaposing turtlenecks, elbow-length gloves, and fur-lined jackets.
Erdem drew from nightlife history for its runway show: 1930s Berlin, when artists like Jeanne Mammen, Anita Berber, and Valeska Gert defined the avant-garde. Designer Erdem Moralioglu pulled from the spirit of that transformational time—one of “dissolving boundaries and subverting conventions,” where “everyone [was] welcome, and all [participated].” The designs embody a certain fluidity and glamor, featuring sheer lace, sequined head scarfs, embroidered trench coats, and fringe mid-length skirts.
Yuhan Wang asked her audience a question: “When you think of a goddess, what comes to mind?” Gone are the days of striving toward feminine perfection; Wang’s latest collection asserts that the 2022 version of Venus is “not only about one type of woman.” She opted for satin, lace, fur hoods, and floral patterns, leaning heavily on the motif of the cat—a creature that, like a woman, has “her ardent admirers and extreme detestors.” Softness, Wang claims, can take many forms, but is always an element of strength.