For Men’s Fall/Winter 2022, Luke and Lucie Meier play with crochet, silk, and zodiac print

For its Fall/Winter 2022 menswear collection, Jil Sander stayed with what it knows well: urban comfort, the sophisticated silhouette, and exceptional tailoring. That’s not to say there’s nothing new: Luke and Lucie Meier, the creative director duo behind the German house, introduced a handful of fresh brand signifiers. Their latest presentation bridged the gap between the masculine and feminine, the modern and quaint, and the decorative and utilitarian.

The show was put on at the American Cathedral in Paris. If the building’s stony architecture was a metaphor for Jil Sander’s roots, then the massive, pinkish lantern—which hung from its vaulted ceiling—was a nod to future directions. The models walked to a vibrant soundtrack, composed by experimental musician Panda Bear and his band Animal Collective. They wore the brand’s classics—boxy suits, uniform-inspired trench coats, boots and trousers in black and neutral tones—and its not-so-classics. Crocheted caps, vests, and collars were a whimsical surprise; some coats integrated shearling plastrons, which added softness, literally and figuratively. Then, there was zodiac print, silk pajamas and foulards, and hints of statement color: blue, yellow, orange, and green.

It seems that, soon enough, Jil Sander will speak to an even wider crowd. More people—more personalities—will be encompassed in such good-natured designs. “Lucie and Luke Meier’s collections are always about us; them included,” read the label’s press release. “They conceive their work as a means to give individuals the tools and freedom to be what they want to be.”