Document caught up with Sophie Andes-Gascon and Claire McKinney, the seasoned designers who cut their teeth at Maryam Nassir Zadeh before cofounding their own label.

Sophie Andes-Gascon and Claire McKinney weren’t close friends when they started living together five years ago. Both attended Pratt, but were separated by different dormitories and friend groups. Each admired the other’s work from afar—Andes-Gascon appreciated McKinney’s keen eye for visual presentation; Andes-Gascon fell in love with a pair of pleated denim pants that McKinney had designed. Upon graduating the two moved in together, and soon after began collaborating, first creating one-off pieces for brands like Maryam Nassir Zadeh, then, in September 2019, debuting their own label SC103. Andes-Gascon and McKinney are both exceptionally hard-working and fully committed to their fledgling label. Despite their close relationship, most of the pieces in the duo’s debut Spring 2020 collection were conceptualized individually, with each designer giving the other ideas and inspiration to run with. Photographer and filmmaker Emmanuel Olunkwa spent one day in late September with the designers ahead of their first runway show, discussing the collaboration and their collection debut.