The Italian label’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a balancing act between breeziness and structure, paring looks down to the essentials

This season, the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini woman was defined by three choice words: “sophisticated, effortless, intelligent.” Titled Instincts, the Italian label’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation was pared down to the essentials, the latest in Serafini’s gradual shift towards a minimalist aesthetic.

His models marched down an all-white runway in a parade of cream, beige, and chocolate brown, with olive and blush pieces scattered here and there. Serafini’s silhouettes were roomy but light: belted, sheer floor-length skirts; wide trousers with matching bras and trench coats; and cut-out dresses, evoking something ancient with their pleated sashes.

The designer cited Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct as a guiding influence: “This kind of ’90s vibe… that [celebrates] ease, effortlessness, and comfort. I want women to be able to move when they’re dressed.” Serafini’s tailoring, then, was a balancing act between breeziness and structure, achieved via absolute precision. “It’s more about taking things off than embellishing,” he told Vogue. “It’s simplified.”