In its latest Couture Collection, the house’s high-profile models took to the runway in waist-cinching silhouettes

In his second collection for Balenciaga, Demna presented the 51st Couture Collection in Paris this week. Dominated by black monochrome in the form of tight-fitting bodysuits accented by face shields in coated polyurethane, the collection carried the house’s signature mannequin-esque looks.

The collection brought in Japanese limestone-based neoprene, a modern interpretation of Gazar, a fabric invented for Cristóbal Balenciaga. Other looks for the collection featured faux feathers created with multiple embroidery techniques, using boned organza or cut silk. One leopard coat used 150 kilometers of hand tufted thread. Some men’s tops pulled corsets into play. Some draped dresses reimagined archived pieces. The line incorporated experiments in detail, like 3D printed padding and wetsuit-inspired zip closures. Over a quarter of the collection was created from upcycled items, using vintage bomber jackets, parkas, car coats and jeans to construct new pieces, a tangible response to new standards of environmentalism in fashion.

Models walked with functional speaker purses—a collaboration with Bang & Olufsen—that played the show’s soundtrack. For Balenciaga, couture garments call for couture models. Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid, and Naomi Campbell walked the runway, first anonymous under masks and face shields, then unveiled in statement gowns.

Demna’s second collection for the House integrated advanced technology alongside the traditional, furthering Balenciaga’s legacy of high fashion.