Anthony Vaccarello's presentation at Paris Fashion Week honors the founder's love for Art Deco
Symmetry, simplicity, geometry, and a certain streamlined effect: These are the distinguishing features of the Art Deco movement, which came about in Yves Saint Laurent’s youth, resurging in the ’60 when the designer founded his own eponymous label. The French house recalls that a pair of Jean Dunand’s vases, decorated in the iconic style, was of Saint Laurent’s prized possessions. Art Deco influenced the furnishings of his homes, and the ethos behind his designs. But the movement never quite manifested—physically, at least—in his runway collections.
Until now, that is. For Fall 2022, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello paid homage to Saint Laurent’s love for Art Deco. “The reference is not literal,” reads the house’s press release, “informing the show more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations.” Models walked in view of the Eiffel Tower, wearing double-breasted coats or leather trenches over silk or sheer floor-length gowns. The shoulders were square and pronounced, the earrings heavy, and metal bangles were worn on both wrists to achieve a perfectly balanced impression. Geometric shapes—hexagons and triangles—were offset by floral accents near the lapel, and a neutral color palette created a sleek and cool look overall.
The presentation made a case for the elementary: clean lines, strong tailoring, and artistic roots. Writes Saint Laurent, “Proving that restraint need not be joyless, this is a quietly poetic showing, shot through with bursts of unabashed resolve and verve.”