For his Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection, the designer reimagines the iconic religious painting with trademark élan
Willy Chavarria’s clothes are an expression of his sacred kind of love, one that comprises his California roots, the refined high-mindedness of his adopted home on the Atlantic coast, and his interest in the godly. Capaciousness abounds, both in his generous silhouettes and rich materials, which coalesce in downward-flowing garments that, along with a certain playful tone, are textbook Chavarria. But where past collections have filtered this benevolence through imagery of the religious, his work this season is his most secular, pop-y collection yet. Attendees at last week’s runway show were treated to the designer’s free-wheeling southwestern glamor, fused with the tucked-in, buttoned-up style of a British prep-school boy. In one look, Chavarria effortlessly pairs an open-collared, wide-lapelled khaki shirt with a floor-length double-breasted houndstooth coat; in another, high-waisted three-quarter wool trousers are set against a white crew-neck tank-top and an ivory cowboy hat, styled with a red rose perched perfectly on its brim. Chavarria’s alchemy is in the effortlessness with which he holds a wide gamut of influences within a wide, dynamic silhouette. With his work, every man is invited.
At a long table furnished with a clean white runner and a collection of votive candles, Chavarria and his models gathered for their Last Supper before the start of the show. Document joined them backstage to capture the fervor and glamor of the designer’s divine vision.