The Japanese label’s Spring/Summer 2024 Homme Plissé show refined and paid homage to tried-and-true techniques

The grand hall of Paris’s Museé des Arts Décoratifs staged Issey Miyake’s latest Homme Plissé presentation. In the label’s customary fashion, the show was built around its garments’ origins—starting off with the unspooling of a roll of pleated rice paper, cut apart to reveal pieces from the collection. The models donned them together, right there on the runway.

It was a strong statement, attesting to the old way of doing things; refining and recycling what’s intrinsic to a brand. The collection was uncomplicated: breezy tunics, t-shirt and shorts sets, slit skirts, trench coats, and a range of accessories—nearly exclusively pleated and monochrome in rich, primary hues. Of course, innovation is always possible, even under the umbrella of tradition. The design team offered a handful of series, like HORIZON—featuring horizontal folds—and WING COAT, outerwear inspired by aircraft and bird wings, vented and flowing to give the silhouette a sense of movement.

When it comes to Issey Miyake, minute changes reflect massive innovation; perfecting a technique markedly simple leaves no room for error, in the way that nature, in all its complexity, comes across as elementary to the untrained eye.