Véronique Nichanian playfully iterated on the house’s classics, while imbuing her latest collection with an air of sensuality

Hermès stuck to its codes for Winter 2023: calfskin, cashmere, shearling, and wool in ivory, navy, black, and warm browns. As Vogue put it, “Véronique Nichanian is not the longest-standing creative director in all of fashion for nothing.”

But even as she lingered near the house’s tried-and-true roots, there was subtle innovation. Hermès devotees noted the sensuality of the garments, which, in the past, have tended toward a certain utilitarianism, particularly in the realm of menswear: There was more metal than usual, playfully incorporated through swinging pocket chains, dice necklaces, fireman’s coats clasps, and dangling silver earrings. The placement of the leather was thoughtful, sparse: a patch on the back of a pea coat, encompassing just the neck of a jacket, or the shoulders—accentuating the body purposefully, rather than taking center stage.

The show was held in the UNESCO Headquarters: an organic setting, marked by tall windows, stone flooring, and brick walls. Hermès kept the staging simple, building a wall of mirrors at the head of the runway; it reflected each look from every possible angle—a graphic collage with nowhere to hide, and no need to. That’s testament to the house’s perfect craftsmanship, and reason enough to stand by what’s classic.