In his Spring/Summer 2023 line, Jonathan Anderson plays with technology and the organic, blurring the line between the real and the digitally reproduced
“Grass growing on cloth. Birds flying, fish swimming, water dripping, and humans kissing on screens. The real and the digitally reproduced. Nature and technology meet within a glaringly white, mind-expanding environment.”
Loewe’s description of its Spring/Summer 2023 collection is fairly matter-of-fact—and fittingly so, as that’s essentially the brand’s whole ethos. While the Spanish house often experiments with optical illusion, leaning into absurdity or surrealism, such maneuvers are always carried out with a degree of sharpness or blatancy. In this case, it was the all-white runway, in contrast with the rich pops of color and super-defined silhouettes, that gave Jonathan Anderson’s designs incisiveness.
Standout pieces included floor-length puffer-bombers, crumpled dress shirts, and trench coats and sneakers sprouting with just-watered greenery. Certain tops and outerwear were adorned with smartphone-sized screens, which broadcasted natural scenes: soaring birds, passing clouds, and schools of tropical fish. The show was an exercise in juxtaposition—more observatory than critical. “I think it’s this idea of how nature can lead technology or technology can lead nature,” said Anderson post-show. “It is not a viewpoint of what is happening in the world, but it’s more about if we experiment then we might be able to find different methods within fashion to be able to progress it.”