For Spring/Summer 2023, Jonathan Anderson deconstructs traditional garments, referencing art history and boyish signifiers of youth

Some cite Rembrandt as one of the first creators of the selfie. With sketched and painted self-portraits, the artist played with the idea of subjectivity and objectivity back in the Dutch Golden Age, the 1600s. Now Jonathan Anderson does the same with JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection—featuring prints of Rembrandt’s Self-portrait in a Cap, Wide-Eyed and Open-Mouthed on a variety of colorful knits.

The brand’s Milan Fashion Week debut deconstructs traditional garments and reinvents them with the integration of boyish objects. There are striped long-sleeved sweaters, tied over the shoulders and interrupted by BMX handlebars, hoodies decorated with CDs, t-shirts punctured by can lids, and mohairs with broken skateboard hearts built in.

The label’s latest collection is literal chaotic streetwear, and interpretation is up to individual viewers. It’s a reinvention of everyday items that question the mundane, standards in fashion, and the value of art. Regarding the clashes within his pieces, JW Anderson states, “As much as it is real, thus objective, it is all very subjective, and rather puzzling, or defiant, or insolent because of that.”

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