For Fall 2022, Nicolas Ghesquière explores youthful experimentation with surprising pairings
In the Musée D’Orsay, models play dress up among the 19th-century statues that line the vaulted halls. Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2022 collection recalls the experimentation of adolescence and early adulthood. The collection is more revisionary than it is nostalgic, proving we can learn from the mistakes of fashion’s past.
There is no distinctive era centered as a primary inspiration for Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière, but each look carries references from multiple decades as if curated by a silhouette-savvy teen with a sewing machine, who just inherited the remnants of a multitude of fashion-forward relatives from different generations. Oversized trousers are paired with both a floral tie and a classic black-and-white printed silk scarf, mastering the ever desirable balance between masculine and feminine while avoiding androgyny entirely: It is simply both at once.
Portraits of disaffected youth from photographer David Sims, of ’90s fame and beyond, dress garments in a way that references and elevates the classic band tee. A collection of wallpapered faces decorate a rugby shirt, and a larger teen heartthrob-style portrait woven onto a floral sweatshirt emerges underneath a pinafore dress, blurring the distinctions between layers.
Nothing appears to be outside of Ghesquière’s range as he tackles a pale blue plissé gown and slouchy jumpers with deep pockets all in the same show. For Fall 2022, Louis Vuitton devours sentimentality and masters fashion of the past.