Taking inspiration from growing plants, Satoshi Kondo proves winter dressing doesn’t have to be muted

Satoshi Kondo, artistic director and head designer at Issey Miyake, uses the life cycle of plants and the energy of an erupting spring as a defining theme for his winter collection. The collection, accompanied by an immersive video presentation directed by Yuichi Kodama titled Sow It and Let It Grow, explores metamorphosis, the looks embodying connection and growth.

The presentation opens with structured suits and dresses, accented with three-dimensional pinstripes emulating rhizomes in grayscale colorways. Soft shades of cream and layered looks in black and white give way to tailored, but unrestrictive silhouettes in saturated tones of green and tie-dye prints against bright white. A waist-defining smoked dress, blooming in luscious fuschia pink, suggests hope for the promise of a warmer, brighter world; cut-outs and asymmetrical sleeves dotted throughout the collection are reminiscent of Miyake’s own designs, embodying a sense of abstraction coded in the brand. Circles, whether in the actual draping of a garment or printed on to a dress or trousers, recall the process of life cycles.

​​Wool suits dyed in impossible shades of cobalt blue, magenta, and splattered neon yellow suggest that although the collection lives in winter, the designer is looking towards spring. Jumpsuits flow like caftans in shades of burnt orange and purple-indigo, and that might be one of the most important elements of the collection: the movement of it all. A plant bounces back, growing and spreading freely, before ripening and then doing it all over again.