The photographer takes an intimate look at this season’s standout shows, featuring Stefan Cooke, Mulberry, and KNWLS

It’s the tail end of London Fashion Week, an affair at once classically tailored and brazenly patterned. Punk and proper. High street and avant-garde. It’s impossible to define London’s style, and harder still to peruse all the livestreams, photographs, reviews, and Twitter remarks that emerge from the city’s biannual showcase.

Courtesy of British photographer Peter Lowe, Document puts forward a handful of presentations that are quintessentially London, and shouldn’t be missed.

KNWLS Spring/Summer 2022 collection.

Stefan Cooke collaborated with his partner, Jake Burt, for their brand’s standout show entitled Gimme an ‘S.’ It’s unironically preppy: traditional knitwear and newsboy caps, alongside short shorts that could be interpreted as either antiquated—in a schoolboy kind of way—or rather modern, going with the tide of rising menswear inseams.

Mulberry, known for its luxury leather goods, teamed up with Irish designer Richard Malone for a limited edition capsule. The collection reinterprets two of the former’s most well-loved bags: the Bayswater and the Darley. The bags are like good furniture: functional, steady, beautiful. They’re characterized by a certain mid-century simplicity, richly colored in contrasting reds and blues, greens and whites.

KNWLS recently rebranded, having changed its name, logo, and general ethos this year. Appropriately, the KNWLS woman has a very fresh feel. Her looks are edgy and elegant, with some of the youthful eclecticism of urban streetwear: tight-fitting and sexy, adorned with fringe and crossed laces, accessorized with a cowboy hat and maybe pink snakeskin boots; or slouchy, draping, distressed—and still very sexy. Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, KNWLS’ co-creative directors, are approaching a new sort of femininity, playing cleverly with opposition in form.

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