Raf Simons returns with colorful patterns in a modernist, layered take on Miuccia Prada’s elegant minimalism
For its latest installment, Prada has returned with another co-designed collection as Raf Simons continues his dazzling penchant for color and patterns in a modernist, layered take on Miuccia Prada’s elegant minimalism. Their latest co-llection is a sleek revival of the slim silhouettes that dominated throughout the mid-2000s.
Opting again for film format, the collection is supported by an accompanying video featuring several rooms with lush, textural walls and floors—models strut atop a shaggy white carpet, which gives the illusion that they are walking on clouds In another room, enclosed by pink walls on all sides, the scene of a model dancing is reminiscent of Hype William’s “Hotline Bling.”
Color, shape, and texture are the dominating features in the brand’s newest approach to menswear. Monochrome getups are punctuated with electric colors: a dark brown trench coat’s arm sleeves are rolled up to reveal fuchsia and black patterned sleeves of a fuzzy top. The silhouettes are uniform and consistent: wide shoulders on collared shirts, dress coats and jackets taper towards snatched waists as the eye is lured down by slim-fit pants, making the models look like upside-down isosceles triangles (but, fashion).
The new accessory poised to flood social media are Prada’s electric-colored gloves, adorned with—of all things—built in wallets, emblazoned with the iconic Prada logo.
To accompany its menswear line, the brand has also included a conversation between Raf, Miuccia, and university students appearing on a jumbotron sharing iPhone dimensions: a reference to the Zoom age. This season raises questions about the future of fashion week: Will global vaccination campaigns restore in-person fashion shows, or will the fixed film format perdure past pandemic? The conversation between Raf, Miuccia, and the university students beamed into the middle of the set allows dynamic exchange between designers and the outside world.
Simons, throughout the dialogue, remains steadfastly (if uncharacteristically) jovial. The first questioner announces herself as a Central Saint Martins student studying fashion journalism. “Journalism? Oy, we’re going to get a tough question!” Simons quips.
The next questioner, an American student, asks, “Why is spatial design so important to Prada in parallel with the clothing?
“Whether it’s your house, the places you visit, the places where you meet people—public space and private space—we are encountering a situation we didn’t even know we could possibly have imagined. [Normally] we have the freedom to move wherever we want. We are constantly in dialogue with our fashion and our society. So obviously this is something that will impact us very much.”