Mixing bourgeoisie style codes with boyish staples, Hedi Slimane’s Spring/Summer 2021 offering is relaxed luxury for the next generation

Celine’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection may have premiered in Monaco, but its aura is unmistakably Parisian—a lowkey take on cool girl streetwear that exudes self-assured appeal. Opening on an aerial shot of Kaia Gerber, the show features a socially distanced procession of models striding casually across a freshly chalked racing track, punctuated with shots of old world glamour: yellow gold, Art Deco architecture, and decadent chandeliers. The bourgeoisie style codes of Celine are channeled into boyish staples, such as basketball shorts and baseball caps, as models saunter along the track to the sound of American rapper Princess Nokia—exuding a “fuck you” attitude that feels decidedly modern (“I’m not a wife so talk to me nice / You ain’t my type, I don’t like you / You a broke boy, look at your shoes”).

Celine’s Spring/Summer 2021 video is the second half of Hedi Slimane’s “portrait of a generation.” It follows the brand’s Spring/Summer 2020 video ‘The Dancing Kid,’ an homage to e-boys and youth culture in the internet era. Filmed in a sports venue, Slimane’s new women’s collection feels like an homage to all things high-low: athleisure and glamour, comfort and sex appeal. The collection has the relaxed, expensive feel of something a celebrity might wear to be photographed running errands.

The styling is an optimistic vision of fashion post-Covid: ball gowns dressed down with sneakers, leather jackets paired with loose sweats and unfussy flats, sports bras under relaxed, open blazers. “The young generation wants to assert new codes,” writes the brand in a press release. “With this collection Hedi wants to show, through the youth, optimism… The hope in this uncertain time.”

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