In continuation of our Spring/Summer 2017 fashion coverage, Document heads to Milan to reflect on the week’s highlights backstage.
In a way, it is fitting that Miuccia Prada never publishes shownotes for her runway collections. A designer fueled by so much stimuli, it is the task (and thus the delight) of the onlooker to identify and then unpack the complex issues inside each seam. For Spring/Summer 2017, Prada‘s lightbulb was more minimal than ever before, drawing upon the streamlined elegance of the present. Tangibly, this translated into a simple chicness colored by mismatching hues (in both Art Deco and plaid iterations), man-repelling, high waists, and ostrich feather details that—all together—was less historical than it was joyfully relevant.
Anticipating Gucci‘s forthcoming first unisex runway show next year, Alessandro Michelle offered his own, outrageously glamorous version of prom on a runway. Tux-ed out skaters appeared between 70s debutants—blowback curls, head pieces, face-sized glasses, and all—while chiffon gowns aglitter, Elizabethan-style collars, and tudor sleeves (oh, the sleeves!) stole the show from Michelle’s serpentine favorite last season. Not to say this collection wasn’t with out the creative director’s choice badges—tigers, florals, and even zebras were aplenty—but the fabric evolution—from embroidered everything to nostgalic lamé and metallic ribbons—was apparent.
Rather than the nearly-thematic hold of past lives, Fendi‘s Spring/Summer 2017 collection was much more fluid than ever before. Pristinely balanced between the worlds of hard uniformity and light, sexy dreams, apron-tied skirts paired with long-sleeved, cropped knits, while chiffon dresses sat beneath lingerie silks—all with gorgeous floral and cutout detailing. Metallic lipped models with buoyant pigtails and the always-enigmatic cat eye, offered a vaguely-Harajuku girl attitude to the elaborate line.
Versace‘s long-established glamour took a very different turn this season in 80s purple, merlot red, and techno turquoise toned pieces that stomped the runway with active purpose. Fueled by a spirit of athleticism and female strength, oversized parkas and windbreakers covered the body-tight suits beneath, and drawstring, ruched dresses saw side-release belt buckles and Teva-inspired platforms. A contrast of the billowing and the bodycon, the line brought new energy to the Italian fashion house.
Decorative but not noisy, Consuelo Castiglioni meditated on the silhouette—its relentless destruction and then resurgence—in Marni‘s curiously beautiful Spring/Summer 2017 line. Touches of Grecian costume and micro florals joined soft-sculpture asymmetry and the enlarged. Colored by delicacies—mint, raspberry, chocolate, and cream white—the collection as a whole succeeds in the many ways that others falter: complicated, concept-driven fashion that lives just as effortlessly as it leaves.
In just a short time, Demna Gvasalia’s influence is undeniable across fashion’s global catwalk. And while Rodolfo Paglialunga neared that overstated Vetements-extravagence (shoulder pads and all), the Jil Sander creative director managed to still rein in the clean ethos of the German house. A play on texture and fabrics, his collection spiraled the 40s with the 80s in an array of strong, minimal silhouettes with exaggerated details: be they pleated shorts or oversized, Issey Miyake-style curved sleeves.
The first collection without former creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, Salvatore Ferragamo presented the romantic femininity the brand has long been known for with new updates for today. Spongey, tech fabrics showcased electric florals, while fitted, high-waisted dresses and narrow skirts danced in every color of the rainbow. Fulvio Rigoni, the house’s head of women’s, continued the multi-color, good feeling to garments’ accompanying footwear, which reworked an iconic 1931 Judy Garland cork heel into new, sporty styles.