Document goes backstage for an exclusive look at some of the best collections of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2016 with online fashion director Ronald Burton.
In Alessandro Michele’s second season, he has managed to successfully turn around the historic house of Gucci and reignite everyone’s obsession with the brand since the days of Tom Ford, but in such a drastically different approach. While the clothing feels very romantically nostalgic, there is something that still collides with present day, which is the beauty of it all. It’s the contradiction of ideas that give a strong dialogue to the clothing. Accessories being the cash cows of many luxury brands were strongly offered in such a large array, with direct references of Gucci’s heritage; however, the craftsmanship of the seemingly bohemian like clothing was breath taking, after all his use of sequins appliqué floated down the runway as light as a feather in weight.
The modern day woman, who isn’t afraid of a challenge was all over this collection. Maybe we can refer to her as the modern Jane, who doesn’t need a Tarzan, as there was such a in your face strength to the clothing and accessories, while still remaining sexy and womanly as Donatella loves to portray her woman. From the mixed animalistic patterns, to the frayed edges on suits, and slip dresses to the beautiful light and delicate knotted dresses mini dresses and floor length dresses, the collection as a whole has everyone saying this is Versace’s best collection yet.
The modern day woman, who isn’t afraid of a challenge was all over this collection.
Attending the Bally presentation, and watching their ateliers work carefully to construct the labels ready-to-wear & accessories you couldn’t help but feel a connection to the beauty of the collection, that has just as much hanger appeal as it does on a figure. You were also able to witness first hand, exactly why the clothing evokes such casual luxury, as every single detail and finish are paid close attention to, and the fabrics and textiles used are second to none.
Marco de Vincenzo
Milan is feeling fresh again and designer Marco de Vincenzo, is one of the reasons that the fashion community feels this way. One thing that always stands out about Marco’s collection are his use of unusual fabrics and textiles, but in the most flattering silhouettes that still compliment the woman. The major highlight here were the confetti – like pieces, which were actually laser cut chiffon bits that upon first glance could be light as feathers and in a medley of colorful ombre shades.
Shape, silhouette, and volume were key themes in Marni’s latest collection.The color palette remained primary and bold, while graphic floral patterns intertwined in the collection to break up the other wise color blocking domination. Though brilliantly layered in styling, you couldn’t help but notice the strength of each individual piece standing well on it’s on. Accessories were a huge hit with the statement earrings, stacked bangles, and geometric shaped bags.
No one re-interprets with the strength and statement of Miuccia Prada, and this season, she embodied women through different decade periods, that had one thing in common, that they played by their own rules. The collection showed a plethora of skirt and jacket offerings in patents, furs, sheer, and suede fabrics, there was also a drop waist dress section done in all sheer layering. Exciting accessories were the bulb-like chandelier earrings and the quirky footwear that Miuccia is known for, included suede/snake skin boots, and pointed toe flat and low heeled shoes. No doubt it was an eclectic mash up, but the theme here was not really abiding by one; creating and remixing your own, and owning it.
The latest collection presented deconstruction of classic sportswear pieces. We notice certain slashing in blazers around the shoulder, revealing backless vests, double breasted lapel-less jackets, and so on paired with skinny cropped trousers showing a cool and effortless view on tailored garments. Contrasting these menswear inspired pieces was fluid silk layers such as tied slipped dresses, shirt dresses deconstructed alongside the arm, tiered tank dresses, and beautiful crinkled silk in pants and top variations.
A house ruled known for it’s prints seemed less distracted by this code this season, and really orchestrated a beautiful narrative of soft victorian romance. As the models graced the runway, you lost yourself in the authenticity of beautiful gracefully moving bohemian silhouettes. Simple accessories such as a ribboned chocker, delicate chandelier earrings, and flats that resembled a ballerinas point shoes were the perfect discreet, yet strong accessory for the collection.