A look backstage at Chalayan, Art School, Feng Chen Wang, and John Lawrence Sullivan.
To sift through the constant influx of backstage and runway imagery from fashion week can be a daunting endeavor. Here, we provide a condensed report from London, highlighting the most commanding collections of the week.
Art School sent its models down the runway barefoot with red or pupilless eyes, obscuring signifiers of gender. Slashed tailored outerwear, in conjunction with rope belts weighted by geometric metal pieces, conveyed a utilitarianism that verged on dystopian. However, the glamour which seeped in through lacquered leather and voluminous feathers softened the collection.
Chalayan took special care to emphasize the body in space. Large, meticulously draped capes and pants abounded, flowing outwards as the models moved. Innovative shapes and folds—such as a split-armed, patched jacket—met rich wool and quilt fabrics. Brought together, an aura of studied sophistication emerged.
Feng Chen Wang reimagined sportswear as a conduit for extravagance. Featuring a Converse collaboration and wide shouldered jackets as well as acid-wash and overdyed denim, Wang modernized notable fashion fads from the past through imaginative layering, drawing a variety of textures and shapes into contrast. Under Wang’s discerning direction, a chunky, deconstructed knit seemed at home over an oversized power suit.
John Lawrence Sullivan’s collection exuded an old-school rockstar sensibility—a refreshing alternative to the utilitarianism ubiquitous at the shows. Studded bracelets, chain fastenings, netted sweaters, and rolled sleeves accompanied classic menswear silhouettes. For women, the vision was somewhat subdued, emphasizing instead his technical tailoring know-how.