Etro's Fall/Winter 2020 collection reinvigorates traditional silhouettes with romantic, indulgent layers.

The ambition to go further than those who came before has always been a driving force for innovation of all kinds. While many try to link themselves to figures as “spiritual” forebears, for Kean Etro, the notion is quite literal. Working for the house founded by his father Gerolamo Etro, Kean’s latest work for Etro’s Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection is a tribute to his dad. Held in a garage space, the walls of his show were adorned with oil paintings procured by Gerolamo, portraits of ancestors and sharp outlets alike.

Nostalgia’s unmistakable potency is heavily felt in a collection that gives its own spin to enduring patterns like paisley and leopard print. That being said, Etro’s looking back and forwards. For instance, there’s a novel use of tassels, which dangle from the chest and arms of a sweater, as opposed to the usual placement on a piece’s bottom frame. The reinvigoration of traditional forms is a theme that pervades the upscale medley.

Tonally, there’s a preference for earthy notes, with a wide range of browns and reds. Nothing’s oversized, mirroring the precision and order of the chosen oil paintings. Like the portraits, there’s a rarefied air to the collection, precisely tailored to make a lasting mark while still seeming effortless. In communion with his progenitors, Kean Etro keeps the ball rolling.